Banff has always been a bucket list destination of mine, with its gorgeous scenery and amazing hiking trails. I was finally able to cross it off my list in early September 2018, and put together a short Banff travel guide.
About Banff
Banff is both the name of Canada’s oldest national park and the name of the main town. The town of Banff is the main commercial center within the national park, with many restaurants, hotels, shops, etc.
Banff National Park is one of the most visited national parks in North America and the most popular tourist destination in the Alberta province.
Getting to Banff
The town of Banff is about a 1.5-hour drive from the Calgary (YYC) airport (You will definitely want to rent a car – there are some public/tour transport options available but having a car allows you to be much more flexible).
There is a fee for admission into the national park, and it is valid for any of Banff, Jasper, Yoho or Kootenay national parks. For a single vehicle, it is C$19.60 for a day or C$136.40 for an annual park pass and is good for parking in the lots in town, discounts on entrance to some of the historic site, etc. Based on the price it is worth it to buy an annual pass if you are going to spend 7 days or more in any of the parks. They accept cash or credit cards.
What To Do
What to do in the Banff area is, obviously, highly dependent on what season you are visiting. In the winter, there will be some great snow activities including skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing, ice skating, etc. In the summer, you can hike, kayak, fish, or just relax. The scenery is incredible whichever season you decide to visit!
Hiking in Banff
Sunshine Meadows
My friends and I were in Banff in early September and we had planned to do a lot of hiking. Where we stayed (Sunshine Mountain Lodge) was right in the middle of the hiking trails at Sunshine Meadows, so we started there.
We took a ski lift directly from the front of the lodge up to the top of Mt. Standish to begin our hike. (You can also walk up if you’re feeling motivated) The hike was incredibly scenic. The colors at this time of year (September) were gorgeous, and the lakes were beautiful. The hike itself was not difficult at all, the route we took was at first downhill then mostly flat. We could have made it harder by going back the way we came and taking the lift back down, but decided to take an alternate route to see more of the landscape.
Johnston Canyon
Another great hike in the Banff area is Johnston Canyon. There are basically 3 main attractions along this beautiful 4.5-mile trail. The first half of the hike is alongside a beautiful canyon which features two waterfalls. Continuing on, the second half is a gradual uphill to what is known as the Ink Pots and the beginning of the backcountry. After you leave the upper waterfall you will notice the crowds thin out considerably as most come just for the waterfalls, but it is well worth it to make this a half day hike and trek up to the top.
This is a very popular hike, so get there early (by 9 am) for a spot in the parking lot, otherwise, you may have to park a ways away.
Lake Louise
You don’t even have to hike here, but another must-do in Banff National Park is to drive up to Lake Louise and enjoy the beautiful views. There are a few hiking trails that range in difficulty, or you can also simply just stroll around the perimeter of the lake. Get there early so you can take the shuttle to Lake Moraine as well. Bring a picnic lunch, or eat at one of the restaurants in the Fairmont.
Other Activities
Cave and Basin National Historic Site
For a more low-key activity, check out the Cave and Basin National Historic Site close to the town of Banff, which is essentially where the Canadian National Park system was born. There is one small cave and some exhibits. There are also some nice walking trails alongside the beautiful Bow River.
What To Eat
Magpie & Stumps – a Mexican restaurant in downtown Banff. I know it doesn’t sound as authentic as, say, a Taqueria Jalisco #2 (and it’s not), but it’s still pretty damn good and the baja shrimp tacos are hella spicy and delicious! Get the “El Jefe” margarita (the house margarita was just alright).
Nourish Bistro – A great vegetarian restaurant. They have great juices that are presented really beautifully and the food is delicious. Get the spiced cauliflower bites as an appetizer… amazing!
Where To Stay
We stayed at the Sunshine Mountain Lodge which is about a 20-minute drive outside the town of Banff, located on the top of a mountain. You can’t even park your car up here. You have to park at Sunshine Village and take a gondola up, or the shuttle. The gondola only runs on the weekends (Friday through Monday) and is 100x nicer than taking the shuttle (which is an old school bus). They will accommodate you all hours, you just need to coordinate with the 24-hour front desk. One evening we came back after the shuttle had stopped running, and they sent someone down in an SUV.
Overall, this place was great! It was comfortable and cozy, the lodge has 3 restaurants (ranging from a pub to fine dining) and a cafe, which we frequented since it’s a 20-minute ride down the mountain to the parking lot. The food was great and the service was even better, we enjoyed chatting with our friendly servers who come from all over the world. It also has a sauna, a HUGE hot tub, and supposedly there’s a gym, but I didn’t find out… The only downside was there is no fridge in the room, which would have come in handy.
It’s also right in the middle of the ski resort and great hiking trails, so all you need to do is walk out the front door to start your hike (or ski day).
Weather
In early September 2018 when I visited, the weather ranged from 40-60F (4-15C). Most days, it was cool enough to require long pants and a warm jacket (it even snowed one morning on the mountain, which was super exciting for us Californians!). Other days, for example – when we visited Lake Louise, it was nice enough to walk the perimeter of the lake with just a short-sleeved shirt (although a thin jacket was needed in the shade or when we stopped). So you’ll need to pack a variety of layers depending on the season.
Northern Lights
While we weren’t lucky enough to see the lights while we were there, it’s definitely possible to see them in late summer. The northern lights were in full view from the Sunshine Mountain Lodge just two weeks before we arrived in September. To get alerts about the possibility of a visible Northern Lights display, subscribe to AuroraWatch, there are also apps for iPhone or Android that offer similar alerts.
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